Riesling Hofgut Falkestein Pakete 2023 Wine Box

EXCEPTIONAL WINES SELECTION

1 Okfener Bockstein Kabinett (Fuder Mia) AP 22

1 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett “Alte Reben” (Fuder “Gisela”). AP 8

1 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Spätlese (fuder Förster) AP 5

1 Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb (Fuder Onkel Peter) AP 4

1 Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb (Fuder “Meyer Nepal”) AP 11

1 Krettnacker Ober Schäfershaus Spätlese Trocken (Fuder Lorenz Manni) AP 18

WHY HOFGUT FALKESTEIN

Back in time, but ahead of its time, is the impression one gets when visiting the Hofgut Falkenstein winery. Erich Weber began production here in '81, buying the 1900 estate - splendid now that the renovation has been completed - from the now extinct Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, with the firm intention of living here and making wines with as little intervention as possible both in the vineyards (no herbicides are used) and in the cellar. For the past few years, his son Johannes has shared the running of the company, also trained at the Geisenheim oenology school like his father.

Vinification is done by transferring the grapes by gravity into the pneumatic press, until recently a very old, but effective, winepress was used. After sedimentation, the must is transferred, again by gravity, into old wooden 1000-litre fuddles where fermentation with natural yeasts takes place, and does not undergo any racking or additions, except for a slight sulphurisation. It therefore remains on the lees, and is clarified only by sedimentation, before bottling, carried out fuder by fuder separately (as very few still do). In effect, an ultra-traditional production protocol is followed, with astounding results. We have tasted all the fuder, familiarly named after well-known Niedermennig characters, and as such we indicate them as such in the wine description, as well as the AP number.

The Weber family owns around 8 hectares of vineyards, located in a wide valley that flows into the Saar, just south of Trier. Vineyards once considered of great quality, little renowned nowadays, crushed by the celebrity of its 11 neighbours (the Scharzofberger is only a valley away...). The Webers progressively from the original plot in the Niedermenniger Herrenberg, the heart of which is the prestigious Zuckenberg, have managed to acquire vineyards in the Krettnacker Euchariusberg, suitable for sweet wines, and the addition of the equally prized Krettnacher Altenberg, and its most prestigious section, Krettnacher Ober Schäferhaus, and the Oberemeller Karlsberg. The average age is around 50 years old and up to 80 years with a high proportion of the vines, around 40%, on free standing. The soils give wines with a particularly low pH, and this allows high acidity, brilliance, and protection of the grapes and wines during ageing.

THE STYLE OF THE WINES

They are vibrant, sharp, very precise wines, Oechsle degrees deliberately restrained, even on the Auslese they do not exceed 100, with acidity often above 10 g/l but not aggressive, we believe due to the perfect management of the grapes at maturity, and salinity very evident, and with alcohol always below 12 % vol. In the dry wines and also in the feinherb and sweet wines, the acid/saline/mineral thrust is evident, never coming across as 'broad'. The mineral aromas are very evident on the nose, with citrus, lime, apple, grapefruit, but also flowers and herbs. Proceeding to feinherb and sweet wines, there are also notes of peach, yellow fruit, and sometimes tropical notes, but all well contained. Lovers of trocken wines, non-interventionism has inevitably led to feinherb wines of splendid balance, elevating this category to an absolute, intriguing dimension, true heirs of the classic wines of the area (and with a residual sugar of 20-30 g/l). With the acquisition of excellent plots in a vineyard as gifted as the Euchariusberg, the production of sweet wines also began, but only moderately above 50 g/l residual sugar. It does not deacidify even in the 'harshest' vintages.

Okfener Bockstein Kabinett (Fuder Mia) AP 22.

A great 'premiere' by Erich and Johannes on a celebrated vineyard, but, at the same time, requiring a steady hand to manage the richness given by the environmental situation. We waited confidently for someone to step forward and claim the title of great performer. Well, the Webers have successfully taken up this challenge, producing a stupendous wine, reductive to classify it as a Kabinett, round aromas on the nose, very typical, but also with spices and sweet citrus fruits, beautiful rich presence in the mouth, with a stupendous integrated acidity, which lifts it to great heights of quality, very persistent.

Ockfener Bockstein: A famous and very extensive vineyard, 52.9 hectares, with southern exposure, on grey slate soil, with quartz, and sandstone with quartzite inclusions. It is a vineyard that allows excellent ripening. Great steady hand to manage a large and exuberant vineyard. A truly wonderful wine, which stands out for its aromatic precision and sensory depth, and the energy with which it is imbued. Lots of grape aromas on the nose, and very long persistence. In an area named Beim Kalk from very old vines.

Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett "Alte Reben" (Fuder "Gisela"). AP 8.

An overwhelming shockwave!!! As usual a monument to German wines. Very savoury, tough, crazy energy, very intense and very mineral, almost edgy, a stupendous thoroughbred, chapeau! The tension in the mouth is very high and organoleptically continues with great persistence.

Krettnacher Euchariusberg Spätlese (fuder Förster) AP 5.

Beautiful and bright Auslese, of great purity. It also has a nice cavalcade of extracts which gives it great presence. The 'break' from the Spätlese, organoleptically speaking, is sharper than in the past. The persistence is long. And analytically we are on the Oechsle 100, with 70 g/l residual sugar.

Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb (Fuder Onkel Peter) AP 4.

Really a great little feinherb. Clear, bright mineral, primary fruit, grape. Juicy, sweet and pleasantly citrine mouthfeel. Opens clear, citrusy, extremely refreshing, then impresses with the character that gradually reveals itself as it takes possession of the palate, and adds a nice savoury kick. We loved it. Harvested on 28 September. Hofgut Falkenstein has been working on this category for some time, and for the past two years has also offered it as Kabinett feinherb. 81-82 Oechsle.

Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb (Fuder 'Meyer Nepal') AP 11.

Splendid!!! Great elegance for this iconic wine that defines the quality of German feinherb every year. All in all, it manages to be both lively and also deliciously filigree. The Spätlese in the Falkenstein house have this year's 85-87 Oechsle.

Krettnacker Ober Schäfershaus Spätlese Trocken (Fuder Lorenz Manni) AP 18.

Great trocken wine. It is a step beyond the Altenberg (we are in the same area), to which it adds structure, extracts and considerable depth. We are definitely above the level of Spätlese Trocken. Certainly in the new German wine legislation it could easily be called Grosses Gewachs. It is in fact a very concentrated, intense, and juicy wine. Great persistence.

NOTES ON THE VINTAGE

The vintage is definitely in the vein of Erich and Johannes Weber. A great result, which is nothing new at Hofgut Falkenstein. The management of the vintage, both in the vineyard and in the winemaking process, was masterly, as happens year after year, despite the climatic difficulties. The style always remains of great tension, brilliance, with acidity as always sui generis, around and above 10 g/l, and controlled Oechsle degrees. With regard to the choices, you will notice that a few names are always present, not so much 'dutifully' but rather that this arises every year from tasting and choosing from all the wines (each from a different 1000-litre fuder) produced by the winery, and this year we have reached 22... and from the great kindness of Erich and Johannes to allow us to choose, after tasting together in the cellar, the one we want. And we are truly honoured and grateful for this, from a winery that is now a star of the first magnitude recognised by all, as well as for the pleasantness and friendliness of the visit from them (now in great demand). This year the wines we tasted had already been bottled.